Our server at Grünauer Bistro called the men at our table Sir. When one of the women asked for a glass of water, he replied, with deep seriousness and an Austrian accent, “Madame, consider it done.” He set off deliberately, his chest billowing before him and his feet moving with […]

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In Spain, golden shallow-fried croquetas are served in tapas bars to the diner’s delight. They may be made of any number of things: salt cod, shellfish, Serrano ham, potatoes or cauliflower. Sometimes spherical, sometimes cork-shaped, the best are small enough to devour in two bites. What differentiates the Spanish croqueta […]

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Cuts a striking figure in a Johnny Cash-like ensemble of black boots, black jeans, black shirt and black overcoat, but Ravi DeRossi remains enough of an unknown that customers pay no attention to him as he gives a tour of his various bars in the East Village. There are a […]

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With temperatures soaring, I give you three little words of comfort: Korean! Cold! Noodles!  A traditional dish, it’s called bibim guksu — mixed noodles — and it’s packed with kimchi and other kicky condiments that form a sort of sweet-and-sour kimchi dressing. Usually made with cold buckwheat noodles, naengmyeon, or […]

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